THE WEST HIGHLAND WAY
My very first solo multi-day hike. This is also the longest hike that I have been on - 6 to 7 days. I was, of course, a nervous wreck but it proved to be one of my most memorable hikes. I went in late April to early May - the cold was almost unbearable and the weather change was crazy. Thankfully it wasn't peak season and the trail was less crowded further North. There was a handful of hikers who had planned to complete the entire trail. I would occassionally bump into them along the way and we would have nice exchanges about our hiking experiences, cultures, etc. There was a good mix of nationalities - Scots, Irish, Isrealis, Dutch, Canadian, etc. I guess it was the people that made the experience a whole lot more fulfilling.
I wasn't in my peak form during the hike - I had just came out from winter 'hibernation' and had only been to the gym for 1 to 2 weeks prior to the hike. I was therefore unsure of whether I should stay in hostels/hotels (costly but my haversack would weigh a lot less), or to camp (this is way cheaper but my haversack will weigh a lot more). Thankfully, the trail was manageable with a few steep sections. I had originally planned to complete the trail in 7 days but I managed to clock 32km in my 2 days and managed to complete it in 6 days. On my 7th day, I attempted Ben Navis with the fellow hikers I met along the way. However, because I pushed myself so hard in the first 2 days, my shoulders eventually gave way by the 3rd day and I opted to use baggage transfer so that I can enjoy the trail without the burden on my shoulders.
I kept a journal for the hike and my day-to-day experiences can be found in the links in the table below.
Day 0 - Glasgow
Today can basically be summed up in 1 words: panic. Spent the morning and afternoon packing and repacking and then repacking again to maximize the space in my haversack and reduce the weight as much as possible (still hit 14.6kg though. I should probably try to reduce the weight further by clearing some more 'unneccessary' food). I feel really nervous as this is my longest hike (7 days) and I'm attempting it alone. My parents are going to kill me if they find out about this so I'll tell them after the hike haha. Left my room at 5:45pm to catch the bus to Linkoping Resecentrum but realised that I had forgotten to bring my camera. So I headed back, missed the bus, caught the 6:05pm bus and ran for the Flygbussen to Skavsta airport (which left at 6:30pm).
My food supply for the 7-day hike
After reaching the Euro Hostel (where I spent the night in Glasgow), I have been packing again. Didn't have much time to explore Glasgow but I did drop by a few really cool outdoor stores. They sell EVERYTHING that a trekker would need - chlorine tabs, camping gas, trail maps, etc. I eventually gave in to the temptation of getting a pair of hiking socks. They had extra support at the heels and balls of the foot - awesome:).
About Euro Hostel: great wifi, good for a short stay. The bathing water was freezing cold though. I stayed in a 14-bed female dorm and all the beds were filled with people around my age (all poor students who didn't have money to get private rooms). I was the only Asian. The room smelt of hair spray and perfume and I felt pretty much out of place. Anyway, tomorrows the big day and my bag weighs a ton (not exactly sure how heavy but it's VERY heavy). Hopefully, I'll be able to complete 18.5km tomorrow. Feeling nervous but excited at the same time. All well~
Day 1 - Balmaha
Yay I survived day 1 haha. When I first started the trail, the haversack was already weighing me down. But I kept walking and eventually became numb to the weight. At the start of the trail, I met this nice German girl. She was hiking alone too and we had a nice exchange. She eventually urged me to go on at my own pace, probably cause she didn't want to feel pressured to walk faster. She planned to complete the trail in 14 days while I only had 7. So I wished her all the best and walked ahead. I didn't see her at all for the rest of the day. After that, I came across a team of people who asked for donations for the maintanence of the trail. He seemed really needy and I gave in. But I didn't carry much change and eventually donated 10pounds...The trail was quite packed today. There was a whole bunch of people wearing yellow jackets for some cancer charity. They were carrying day packs and walked as if they were strolling in the park while I trudged on with my 13kg haversack.
asked someone to help me take a photo but she forgot to focus
About the trail: it was very well maintained and had direction signs whenever the path diverges. The view can get a bit dull at times but at other sections it was amazing - herds of sheep grazing, large patches of green fields and hills, and the top-down view from Conic Hill. It was painful to walk up the hill but it gave the best view thus far. Other than the hill, the path was pretty flat with gradual ups and downs. Perhaps that's why it's so crowded.
grazing sheep
view from Conic Hill
I had originally planned to camp at Dryman Campsite, but I reached the campsite at around 1:30pm (started at 9:30am), with plenty of time before the sun sets. Without knowing the distance of the next campsite, I decided to take the risk and continued with the trail. I had thought that there should be another just a few kilometers away and the path so far was pretty flat. Little did I know the trail from Dryman to Balmaha crosses a steep hill, and is so damn far (another 12km). I eventually reached Milarrochy Bay Campsite at 6pm with sore feet and hips. The thought of dinner and cuddling in my sleeping bag was overwhelming.
About the campsite: the campsite was beyond my expectations. They had proper toilets and showers (with hot water). There was also a cooking shelter, tables, benches and laundry services. All for 5.4pounds (excluding laundry). The campers there were really friendly too. They said my food smells good and applauded me for cooking. They probably brought dehydrated food - which explains the size of their backpacks. Note to self: bring dehydrated food. Besides the weight, dinner was awesome - thai curry fried rice with onion, garlic, cashews, dried blueberry, pineapple and tuna.
Day 2 - Inverarnan
After much persistence, I managed to reach Beinglas Farm Campsite about 32km away from the previous campsite. Got up at 6am, left by 7:30am, reached at 6+pm. Covered the same distance as yesterday but I was weighed down by the sores at my hips. The trail was a lot tougher too - very rocky and a lot of ascends and descends. Some parts of the trail had good views though but not the relentlessly tough section. The weather is colder than yesterday's with a lot of wind - probably cause I'm further North and nearer to the sea.
the sea
the tough section
Met a handful of nice hikers. The first was a biology teacher from the Netherlands. We talked about our countries, cultures, hiking trails, etc. But he walked really fast so I urged him to continue without me - he arrived at the campsite 45min ahead of me. The next exchange was with a father-son team. If only Singapore had such a cool walking culture. The third was with an Isreali I met a mile away from the campsite. I was really thankful to have met him. Our conversation took my mind off the pain and he set a really past pace which I struggled but succeeded to follow. Earlier just now, he invited me to join his friends in a bar. I said I don't drink but he urged me to come anyway and I agreed. It's getting pretty late though. Hope he comes knocking at my tent soon. Anyway, the other hikers were pretty surprised that I came alone and came this far within 2 days. I guess not everybody walks for 30+km for the first 2 days.
Day 3 - Tyndrum
Before getting on with what happened today, I'll do a short flashback to my experience in the pub. So the Isreali guy did come at 10:30pm and I kinda unwillingly joined him (cause the gate to the campsite would close at 11pm and I was tired but I didn't want to disappoint him either). It was my first time in the pub and I felt quite out of place cause I didn't talk much and I didn't drink. Well, I eventually ordered half a pint of cider but the Irish said 'that's what we give our kids when we introduced them to drinking'. Anayway, their stories were interesting so I just sat there and listened. At around 12:30am, the bar closed and we had to head back. The gate to the campsite was closed by then and we thought we had to do a river crossing in the middle of the night. Thankfully, we decided not to and climbed the gates instead (which were barbed by the way. I struggled across). The sky that night was also very clear and the whole sky was filled with stars. It was amazing. I eventually slept at 1am but managed to wake up at 5:54am just before my alarm rang (cause it was freezing that night).
So back to today - way less interesting than yesterday. I left early so I didn't see the other hikers I met yesterday. I was pretty much alone for the most part which was nice and quiet. The view was awesome, complete with sheep and cows. Had a short day today - reached the campsite at around 1:30pm and decided not to go any further cause of my worsening blister, sore hips and aching shoulders. I also decided to abandon my haversack and use the baggage transfer services. I doubt I will be able to complete the 32km tomorrow with all that weight.
nice and quiet
sheep dotted the fields
look at those mountains in the background
Day 4 - King's House
It was a short day today. Walked much faster without the haversack and enjoyed the trail a little more as a result. The blister is as irritating though. After awhile the walk numbs it but whenever I stop for a break, the pain returns. Met another hiker along the way - another Dutch. She introduced me to this amazing thing called 'compeed' which acts as a support for blisters. I used one of hers and felt a lot better after that.
Today's hike was a lot more interesting - the view was great and I walked into a small snow storm which passed as quickly as it came. For the most part, I was walking and talking to other hikers which takes my mind off the blister too. It also kept me in pace. Reached King's House at around 4pm and set up my tent outside the hotel. It's nice that the hotel welcomes hikers to use their toilet and pub which kept me warmed up before heading back out into the cold. Right I'll let the photos do the talking now. It was particularly hard to narrow down the photos I took today - the view throughout this section was simply amazing.
mountain:)
highland cows and their glorious hair
the portugese runner who stopped to ask me
"Hi! You're always the first person I pass on the trail. When do you start walking everyday?"
more mountains~ this section was particularly vast and spectacular
Day 5 - Kinlochleven
Another quiet day, until the hostel check in haha. Left King's House early cause it was FREEZING cold and I didn't sleep much. I eventually decided to give up at 4:30am. But the hotel only opens at 6+am and I need to wash up before heading off so I just froze in my sleeping bag and waited. Note to self: bring a camping mat or an insulation to block the cold from the ground.
The walk today was okay. The uphill climb up the devil's staircase was harder but it didn't last for too long. It was snowing pretty heavily though and there was a white out at the summit. After awhile, I became cold and wet and the wind started to become irritating. Nonetheless, it was a short hike - 14km and I reached Kinlochleven real early at 12pm. The check-in to the hostel was at 2pm (decided to give myself a treat to a nice warm bed) so I ate a really long lunch and camped at the cafe-bar. I was tired and wet. Finally, someone I know came through the door - a Australian I met yesterday. She was with a Canadian who went backpacking solo around Southeast Asia. How cool is that??
white out
the summit of the devil's staircase
Anyway, I managed to get a bed in Blackwater hostel along with the company of the most chatty person I have ever met. She even apologised for talking too much but she still does it. I didn't find her irritating though - it was nice to have company after spending the first half of the day walking alone.
Day 6 - Fort William
Left rather early again today and reached the campsite at around 12+pm. It was a short and quiet day today. My company last night left with me but eventually slowed cause of her blister (which was way bigger than mine><). I didn't see much people on the trail today except for the Portuguese runner who passed me again. Met another old lady who just started the trail from Fort William. She hiked 2000km over a period of 4 months! This trail is nothing to her lol. I also bumped into the biology teacher I met on Day 2 and had lunch in a resturant at Fort William. He had veered off the trail to climb other mountains nearby - which was why I didn't see him at the campsites Beinglas. West Highland Way was too flat for him haha. He said the view at the peak was much like that of the devil's staircase though, just snowy with no view. I guess he was looking more for adventure and challenge rather than a good view.
The other hikers started appearing one by one at the campsite at around 3-4pm. Before that, I headed to the town center and checked out a few of the outdoor shops - if only Singapore had that many well-stocked shops. At about 6pm, I joined the whole hiking gang in a pub for a mini celebration and had my first pint - cider brewed in a whisky barrel. It was nice to see everyone gathered together. I guess I'm lucky to have met these hikers who have been so welcoming and friendly. I have also decided to join them in attempting Ben Navis tomorrow since I have an extra day anyway. I'm tired though - hopefully it won't be too tough.
some ruins along the way
finally - Fort William is in sight
Day 7 - Ben Navis
So this morning, I woke up cold and the rest with a slight hangover. After washing up and waiting for one another, we started the attempt. Some brought hiking sticks and others rented crampons. I had neither as I wanted to save some money, which wasn't a good idea. The trail started with steep stairs. It was tiring but without my haversack I could go fast and last longer. I was surprised I could actually keep up with the other guys. Before hitting the snow nearer the peak, the view was great and the climb was refreshing. My body was warmed up from the climb and I didn't feel the cold until I stopped for breaks. The trail was pretty crowded as Ben Navis is accessible from Fort William and is quite well known.
stairssss
The trail started to become thick and slippery with snow and it was painful having to keep myself from slipping as I wasn't accustomed to walking on snow. The peak was just around a few more bends though and I really wanted to reach it. With the help of a hiking stick offered by another hiker, I managed a few bends. The view nearer the summit was also hidden behind the clouds and there was really nothing to see. I guess hikers attempt Ben Navis for the challenge rather than for a good view. At about 400m away from the peak, I decided to head back down as I was slipping too often and I felt like a burden to the other hikers. Heading down was even more painful than heading up and I made my way down very slowly. At least now I know to come prepared for my next attempt.
I think I have had enough snow for the next 10 years
the clouds cleared for a short moment
